nothing but what was good was present, and I pleased myself in thinking
that so spirited a man would be well every where. I slept in the same
room with Dr. Johnson. Each had a neat bed, with Tartan curtains, in an
upper chamber.
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13.
The room where we lay was a celebrated one. Dr. Johnson's bed was the
very bed in which the grandson of the unfortunate King James the
Second[543] lay, on one of the nights after the failure of his rash
attempt in 1745-6, while he was eluding the pursuit of the emissaries of
government, which had offered thirty thousand pounds as a reward for
apprehending him. To see Dr. Samuel Johnson lying in that bed, in the
isle of Sky, in the house of Miss Flora Macdonald, struck me with such a
group of ideas as it is not easy for words to describe, as they passed
through the mind. He smiled, and said, 'I have had no ambitious thoughts
in it[544].' The room was decorated with a great variety of maps and
prints. Among others, was Hogarth's print of Wilkes grinning, with a cap
of liberty on a pole by him. That too was a curious circumstance in the
scene this morning; such a contrast was Wilkes to the above groupe. It
reminded me of Sir William Chambers's _Account of Oriental
Gardening_[545], in which we are told all odd, strange, ugly, and even
terrible objects, are introduced for the sake of variety; a wild
extravagance of taste which is so well ridiculed in the celebrated
Epistle to him[546]. The following lines of that poem immediately
occurred to me;
'Here too, O king of vengeance! in thy fane,
Tremendous Wilkes shall rattle his gold chain[547].'
Upon the table in our room I found in the morning a slip of paper, on
which Dr. Johnson had written with his pencil these words,
'Quantum cedat virtutibus aurum[548].'
What he meant by writing them I could not tell[549]. He had caught cold
a day or two ago, and the rain yesterday having made it worse, he was
become very deaf. At breakfast he said, he would have given a good deal
rather than not have lain in that bed. I owned he was the lucky man; and
observed, that without doubt it had been contrived between Mrs.
Macdonald and him. She seemed to acquiesce; adding, 'You know young
_bucks_ are always favourites of the ladies.' He spoke of Prince Charles
being here, and asked Mrs. Macdonald, '_Who_ was with him? We were told,
madam, in England, there was one Miss Flora Macdonald with him.' She
said, 'they were very right;' and perceiving Dr. Johnson's curiosity,
though he had delicacy enough not to question her, very obligingly
entertained him with a recital of the particulars which she herself knew
of that escape, which does so much honour to the humanity, fidelity, and
generosity of the Highlanders. Dr. Johnson listened to her with placid
attention, and said, 'All this should be written down.'
From what she told us, and from what I was told by others personally
concerned, and from a paper of information which Rasay was so good as to
send me, at my desire, I have compiled the following abstract, which, as
it contains some curious anecdotes, will, I imagine, not be
uninteresting to my readers, and even, perhaps, be of some use to future
historians.
* * * * *
Prince Charles Edward, after the battle of Culloden, was conveyed to
what is called the _Long Island_, where he lay for some time concealed.
But intelligence having been obtained where he was, and a number of
troops having come in quest of him, it became absolutely necessary for
him to quit that country without delay. Miss Flora Macdonald, then a
young lady, animated by what she thought the sacred principle of
loyalty, offered, with the magnanimity of a Heroine, to accompany him in
an open boat to Sky, though the coast they were to quit was guarded by
ships. He dressed himself in women's clothes, and passed as her supposed
maid, by the name of Betty Bourke, an Irish girl. They got off
undiscovered, though several shots were fired to bring them to, and
landed at Mugstot, the seat of Sir Alexander Macdonald. Sir Alexander
was then at Fort Augustus, with the Duke of Cumberland; but his lady was
at home. Prince Charles took his post upon a hill near the house. Flora
Macdonald waited on lady Margaret[550], and acquainted her of the
enterprise in which she was engaged. Her ladyship, whose active
benevolence was ever seconded by superior talents, shewed a perfect
presence of mind, and readiness of invention, and at once settled that
Prince Charles should be conducted to old Rasay, who was himself
concealed with some select friends. The plan was instantly communicated
to Kingsburgh, who was dispatched to the hill to inform the Wanderer,
and carry him refreshments. When Kingsburgh approached, he started up,
and advanced, holding a large knotted stick, and in appearance ready to
knock him down, till he said, 'I am Macdonald of Kingsburgh, come to
serve your highness.' The Wanderer answered, 'It is well,' and was
satisfied with the plan.
Flora Macdonald dined with Lady Margaret, at whose table there sat an
officer of the army, stationed here with a party of soldiers, to watch
for Prince Charles in case of his flying to the isle of Sky. She
afterwards often laughed in good-humour with this gentleman, on her
having so well deceived him. After dinner, Flora Macdonald on
horseback, and her supposed maid, and Kingsburgh, with a servant
carrying some linen, all on foot, proceeded towards that gentleman's
house. Upon the road was a small rivulet which they were obliged to
cross. The Wanderer, forgetting his assumed sex, that his clothes might
not be wet, held them up a great deal too high. Kingsburgh mentioned
this to him, observing, it might make a discovery. He said, he would be
more careful for the future. He was as good as his word; for the next
brook they crossed, he did not hold up his clothes at all, but let them
float upon the water. He was very awkward in his female dress. His size
was so large, and his strides so great, that some women whom they met
reported that they had seen a very big woman, who looked like a man in
woman's clothes, and that perhaps it was (as they expressed themselves)
the _Prince_, after whom so much search was making.
At Kingsburgh he met with a most cordial reception; seemed gay at
supper, and after it indulged himself in a cheerful glass with his
worthy host. As he had not had his clothes off for a long time, the
comfort of a good bed was highly relished by him, and he slept soundly
till next day at one o'clock.
The mistress of Corrichatachin told me, that in the forenoon she went
into her father's room, who was also in bed, and suggested to him her
apprehensions that a party of the military might come up, and that his
guest and he had better not remain here too long. Her father said, 'Let
the poor man repose himself after his fatigues; and as for me, I care
not, though they take off this old grey head ten or eleven years sooner
than I should die in the course of nature.' He then wrapped himself in
the bed-clothes, and again fell fast asleep.
On the afternoon of that day, the Wanderer, still in the same dress, set
out for Portree, with Flora Macdonald and a man servant. His shoes being
very bad, Kingsburgh provided him with a new pair, and taking up the old
ones, said, 'I will faithfully keep them till you are safely settled at
St. James's. I will then introduce myself by shaking them at you, to put
you in mind of your night's entertainment and protection under my roof.'
He smiled, and said, 'Be as good as your word!' Kingsburgh kept the
shoes as long as he lived. After his death, a zealous Jacobite gentleman
gave twenty guineas for them. Old Mrs. Macdonald, after her guest had
left the house, took the sheets in which he had lain, folded them
carefully, and charged her daughter that they should be kept unwashed,
and that, when she died, her body should be wrapped in them as a winding
sheet. Her will was religiously observed.
Upon the road to Portree, Prince Charles changed his dress, and put on
man's clothes again; a tartan short coat and waistcoat, with philibeg
and short hose, a plaid, and a wig and bonnet.
Mr. Donald M'Donald, called Donald Roy, had been sent express to the
present Rasay, then the young laird, who was at that time at his
sister's house, about three miles from Portree, attending his brother,
Dr. Macleod, who was recovering of a wound he had received at the battle
of Culloden. Mr. M'Donald communicated to young Rasay the plan of
conveying the Wanderer to where old Rasay was; but was told that old
Rasay had fled to Knoidart, a part of Glengary's estate. There was then
a dilemma what should be done. Donald Roy proposed that he should
conduct the Wanderer to the main land; but young Rasay thought it too
dangerous at that time, and said it would be better to conceal him in
the island of Rasay, till old Rasay could be informed where he was, and
give his advice what was best. But the difficulty was, how to get him to
Rasay. They could not trust a Portree crew, and all the Rasay boats had
been destroyed, or carried off by the military, except two belonging to
Malcolm M'Leod, which he had concealed somewhere.
Dr. Macleod being informed of this difficulty, said he would risk his
life once more for Prince Charles; and it having occurred, that there
was a little boat upon a fresh-water lake in the neighbourhood, young
Rasay and Dr. Macleod, with the help of some women, brought it to the
sea, by extraordinary exertion, across a Highland mile of land, one half
of which was bog, and the other a steep precipice.
These gallant brothers, with the assistance of one little boy, rowed the
small boat to Rasay, where they were to endeavour to find Captain
M'Leod, as Malcolm was then called, and get one of his good boats, with
which they might return to Portree, and receive the Wanderer; or, in
case of not finding him, they were to make the small boat serve, though
the danger was considerable.
Fortunately, on their first landing, they found their cousin Malcolm,
who, with the utmost alacrity, got ready one of his boats, with two
strong men, John M'Kenzie, and Donald M'Friar. Malcolm, being the oldest
man, and most cautious, said, that as young Rasay had not hitherto
appeared in the unfortunate business, he ought not to run any risk; but
that Dr. Macleod and himself, who were already publickly engaged, should
go on this expedition. Young Rasay answered, with an oath, that he would
go, at the risk of his life and fortune. 'In GOD'S name then (said
Malcolm) let us proceed.' The two boatmen, however, now stopped short,
till they should be informed of their destination; and M'Kenzie declared
he would not move an oar till he knew where they were going. Upon which
they were both sworn to secrecy; and the business being imparted to
them, they were eager to put off to sea without loss of time. The boat
soon landed about half a mile from the inn at Portree.
All this was negotiated before the Wanderer got forward to Portree.
Malcolm M'Leod and M'Friar were dispatched to look for him. In a short
time he appeared, and went into the publick house. Here Donald Roy, whom
he had seen at Mugstot, received him, and informed him of what had been
concerted. He wanted silver for a guinea, but the landlord had only
thirteen shillings. He was going to accept of this for his guinea; but
Donald Roy very judiciously observed, that it would discover him to be
some great man; so he desisted. He slipped out of the house, leaving his
fair protectress, whom he never again saw; and Malcolm Macleod was
presented to him by Donald Roy, as a captain in his army. Young Rasay
and Dr. Macleod had waited, in impatient anxiety, in the boat. When he
came, their names were announced to him. He would not permit the usual
ceremonies of respect, but saluted them as his equals.
Donald Roy staid in Sky, to be in readiness to get intelligence, and
give an alarm in case the troops should discover the retreat to Rasay;
and Prince Charles was then conveyed in a boat to that island in the
night. He slept a little upon the passage, and they landed about
day-break. There was some difficulty in accommodating him with a
lodging, as almost all the houses in the island had been burnt by the
soldiery. They repaired to a little hut, which some shepherds had lately
built, and having prepared it as well as they could, and made a bed of
heath for the stranger, they kindled a fire, and partook of some
provisions which had been sent with him from Kingsburgh. It was
observed, that he would not taste wheat-bread, or brandy, while
oat-bread and whisky lasted; 'for these, said he, are my own country
bread and drink.'--This was very engaging to the Highlanders.
Young Rasay being the only person of the company that durst appear with
safety, he went in quest of something fresh for them to eat: but though
he was amidst his own cows, sheep, and goats, he could not venture to
take any of them for fear of a discovery, but was obliged to supply
himself by stealth. He therefore caught a kid, and brought it to the hut
in his plaid, and it was killed and drest, and furnished them a meal
which they relished much. The distressed Wanderer, whose health was now
a good deal impaired by hunger, fatigue, and watching, slept a long
time, but seemed to be frequently disturbed. Malcolm told me he would
start from broken slumbers, and speak to himself in different languages,
French, Italian, and English. I must however acknowledge, that it is
highly probable that my worthy friend Malcolm did not know precisely the
difference between French and Italian. One of his expressions in English
was, 'O GOD! poor Scotland!'
While they were in the hut, M'Kenzie and M'Friar, the two boatmen, were
placed as sentinels upon different eminences; and one day an incident
happened, which must not be omitted. There was a man wandering about the
island, selling tobacco. Nobody knew him, and he was suspected to be a
spy. M'Kenzie came running to the hut, and told that this suspected
person was approaching. Upon which the three gentlemen, young Rasay, Dr.
Macleod, and Malcolm, held a council of war upon him, and were
unanimously of opinion that he should instantly be put to death. Prince
Charles, at once assuming a grave and even severe countenance, said,
'God forbid that we should take away a man's life, who may be innocent,
while we can preserve our own.' The gentlemen however persisted in their
resolution, while he as strenuously continued to take the merciful side.
John M'Kenzie, who sat watching at the door of the hut, and overheard
the debate, said in Erse, 'Well, well; he must be shot. You are the
king, but we are the parliament, and will do what we choose.' Prince
Charles, seeing the gentlemen smile, asked what the man had said, and
being told it in English, he observed that he was a clever fellow, and,
notwithstanding the perilous situation in which he was, laughed loud and
heartily. Luckily the unknown person did not perceive that there were
people in the hut, at least did not come to it, but walked on past it,
unknowing of his risk. It was afterwards found out that he was one of
the Highland army, who was himself in danger. Had he come to them, they
were resolved to dispatch him; for, as Malcolm said to me, 'We could not
keep him with us, and we durst not let him go. In such a situation, I
would have shot my brother, if I had not been sure of him.' John
M'Kenzie was at Rasay's house when we were there[551]. About eighteen
years before, he hurt one of his legs when dancing, and being obliged to
have it cut off, he now was going about with a wooden leg. The story of
his being a _member of parliament_ is not yet forgotten. I took him out
a little way from the house, gave him a shilling to drink Rasay's
health, and led him into a detail of the particulars which I have just
related. With less foundation, some writers have traced the idea of a
parliament, and of the British constitution, in rude and early times. I
was curious to know if he had really heard, or understood, any thing of
that subject, which, had he been a greater man, would probably have been
eagerly maintained. 'Why, John, (said I,) did you think the king should
be controuled by a parliament?' He answered, 'I thought, Sir, there were
many voices against one.'
The conversation then turning on the times, the Wanderer said, that, to
be sure, the life he had led of late was a very hard one; but he would
rather live in the way he now did, for ten years, than fall into the
hands of his enemies. The gentlemen asked him, what he thought his
enemies would do with him, should he have the misfortune to fall into
their hands. He said, he did not believe they would dare to take his
life publickly, but he dreaded being privately destroyed by poison or
assassination. He was very particular in his inquiries about the wound
which Dr. Macleod had received at the battle of Culloden, from a ball
which entered at one shoulder, and went cross to the other. The doctor
happened still to have on the coat which he wore on that occasion. He
mentioned, that he himself had his horse shot under him at Culloden;
that the ball hit the horse about two inches from his knee, and made him
so unruly that he was obliged to change him for another. He threw out
some reflections on the conduct of the disastrous affair at Culloden,
saying, however, that perhaps it was rash in him to do so. I am now
convinced that his suspicions were groundless; for I have had a good
deal of conversation upon the subject with my very worthy and ingenious
friend, Mr. Andrew Lumisden, who was under secretary to Prince Charles,
and afterwards principal secretary to his father at Rome, who, he
assured me, was perfectly satisfied both of the abilities and honour of
the generals who commanded the Highland army on that occasion. Mr.
Lumisden has written an account of the three battles in 1745-6, at once
accurate and classical[552]. Talking of the different Highland corps,
the gentlemen who were present wished to have his opinion which were the
best soldiers. He said, he did not like comparisons among those corps:
they were all best.
He told his conductors, he did not think it advisable to remain long in
any one place; and that he expected a French ship to come for him to
Lochbroom, among the Mackenzies. It then was proposed to carry him in
one of Malcolm's boats to Lochbroom, though the distance was fifteen
leagues coastwise. But he thought this would be too dangerous, and
desired that, at any rate, they might first endeavour to obtain
intelligence. Upon which young Rasay wrote to his friend, Mr. M'Kenzie
of Applecross, but received an answer, that there was no appearance of
any French ship. It was therefore resolved that they should return to
Sky, which they did, and landed in Strath, where they reposed in a
cow-house belonging to Mr. Niccolson of Scorbreck. The sea was very
rough, and the boat took in a good deal of water. The Wanderer asked if
there was danger, as he was not used to such a vessel. Upon being told
there was not, he sung an Erse song with much vivacity. He had by this
time acquired a good deal of the Erse language.
Young Rasay was now dispatched to where Donald Roy was, that they might
get all the intelligence they could; and the Wanderer, with much
earnestness, charged Dr. Macleod to have a boat ready, at a certain
place about seven miles off, as he said he intended it should carry him
upon a matter of great consequence; and gave the doctor a case,
containing a silver spoon, knife, and fork, saying, 'keep you that till
I see you,' which the doctor understood to be two days from that time.
But all these orders were only blinds; for he had another plan in his
head, but wisely thought it safest to trust his secrets to no more
persons than was absolutely necessary. Having then desired Malcolm to
walk with him a little way from the house, he soon opened his mind,
saying, 'I deliver myself to you. Conduct me to the Laird of M'Kinnon's
country.' Malcolm objected that it was very dangerous, as so many
parties of soldiers were in motion. He answered, 'There is nothing now
to be done without danger.' He then said, that Malcolm must be the
master, and he the servant; so he took the bag, in which his linen was
put up, and carried it on his shoulder; and observing that his
waistcoat, which was of scarlet tartan, with a gold twist button, was
finer than Malcolm's, which was of a plain ordinary tartan, he put on
Malcolm's waistcoat, and gave him his; remarking at the same time, that
it did not look well that the servant should be better dressed than
the master.
Malcolm, though an excellent walker, found himself excelled by Prince
Charles, who told him, he should not much mind the parties that were
looking for him, were he once but a musket shot from them; but that he
was somewhat afraid of the Highlanders who were against him. He was well
used to walking in Italy, in pursuit of game; and he was even now so
keen a sportsman, that, having observed some partridges, he was going
to take a shot: but Malcolm cautioned him against it, observing that the
firing might be heard by the tenders[553] who were hovering upon
the coast.
As they proceeded through the mountains, taking many a circuit to avoid
any houses, Malcolm, to try his resolution, asked him what they should
do, should they fall in with a party of soldiers: he answered, 'Fight,
to be sure!' Having asked Malcolm if he should be known in his present
dress, and Malcolm having replied he would, he said, 'Then I'll blacken
my face with powder.' 'That, said Malcolm, would discover you at once.'
'Then, said he, I must be put in the greatest dishabille possible.' So
he pulled off his wig, tied a handkerchief round his head, and put his
night-cap over it, tore the ruffles from his shirt, took the buckles out
of his shoes, and made Malcolm fasten them with strings; but still
Malcolm thought he would be known. 'I have so odd a face, (said he) that
no man ever saw me but he would know me again[554].'
He seemed unwilling to give credit to the horrid narrative of men being
massacred in cold blood, after victory had declared for the army
commanded by the Duke of Cumberland. He could not allow himself to think
that a general could be so barbarous[555]. When they came within two
miles of M'Kinnon's house, Malcolm asked if he chose to see the laird.
'No, (said he) by no means. I know M'Kinnon to be as good and as honest
a man as any in the world, but he is not fit for my purpose at present.
You must conduct me to some other house; but let it be a gentleman's
house.' Malcolm then determined that they should go to the house of his
brother-in-law, Mr. John M'Kinnon, and from thence be conveyed to the
main land of Scotland, and claim the assistance of Macdonald of
Scothouse. The Wanderer at first objected to this, because Scothouse was
cousin to a person of whom he had suspicions. But he acquiesced in
Malcolm's opinion.
When they were near Mr. John M'Kinnon's house, they met a man of the
name of Ross, who had been a private soldier in the Highland army. He
fixed his eyes steadily on the Wanderer in his disguise, and having at
once recognized him, he clapped his hands, and exclaimed, 'Alas! is this
the case?' Finding that there was now a discovery, Malcolm asked 'What's
to be done?' 'Swear him to secrecy,' answered Prince Charles. Upon which
Malcolm drew his dirk, and on the naked blade, made him take a solemn
oath, that he would say nothing of his having seen the Wanderer, till
his escape should be made publick.
Malcolm's sister, whose house they reached pretty early in the morning,
asked him who the person was that was along with him. He said it was one
Lewis Caw, from Crieff, who being a fugitive like himself, for the same
reason, he had engaged him as his servant, but that he had fallen sick.
'Poor man! (said she) I pity him. At the same time my heart warms to a
man of his appearance.' Her husband was gone a little way from home; but
was expected every minute to return. She set down to her brother a
plentiful Highland breakfast. Prince Charles acted the servant very
well, sitting at a respectful distance, with his bonnet off. Malcolm
then said to him, 'Mr. Caw, you have as much need of this as I have;
there is enough for us both: you had better draw nearer and share with
me.' Upon which he rose, made a profound bow, sat down at table with his
supposed master, and eat very heartily. After this there came in an old
woman, who, after the mode of ancient hospitality, brought warm water,
and washed Malcolm's feet. He desired her to wash the feet of the poor
man who attended him. She at first seemed averse to this, from pride, as
