We had at last a good dinner, or rather supper, and were very well
satisfied with our entertainment.
WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 13.
Col called me up, with intelligence that it was a good day for a passage
to Mull; and just as we rose, a sailor from the vessel arrived for us.
We got all ready with dispatch. Dr. Johnson was displeased at my
bustling, and walking quickly up and down. He said, 'It does not hasten
us a bit. It is getting on horseback in a ship[831]. All boys do it; and
you are longer a boy than others.' He himself has no alertness, or
whatever it may be called; so he may dislike it, as _Oderunt hilarem
tristes[832]._
Before we reached the harbour, the wind grew high again. However, the
small boat was waiting and took us on board. We remained for some time
in uncertainty what to do: at last it was determined, that, as a good
part of the day was over, and it was dangerous to be at sea at night, in
such a vessel, and such weather, we should not sail till the morning
tide, when the wind would probably be more gentle. We resolved not to go
ashore again, but lie here in readiness. Dr. Johnson and I had each a
bed in the cabin. Col sat at the fire in the fore-castle, with the
captain, and Joseph, and the rest. I eat some dry oatmeal, of which I
found a barrel in the cabin. I had not done this since I was a boy. Dr.
Johnson owned that he too was fond of it when a boy[833]; a circumstance
which I was highly pleased to hear from him, as it gave me an
opportunity of observing that, notwithstanding his joke on the article
of OATS[834], he was himself a proof that this kind of _food_ was not
peculiar to the people of Scotland.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 14.
When Dr. Johnson awaked this morning, he called _'Lanky!'_ having, I
suppose, been thinking of Langton; but corrected himself instantly, and
cried, _'Bozzy!'_ He has a way of contracting the names of his friends.
Goldsmith feels himself so important now, as to be displeased at it. I
remember one day, when Tom Davies was telling that Dr. Johnson said, We
are all in labour for a name to _Goldy's_ play,' Goldsmith cried 'I have
often desired him not to call me _Goldy[835].'_
Between six and seven we hauled our anchor, and set sail with a fair
breeze; and, after a pleasant voyage, we got safely and agreeably into
the harbour of Tobermorie, before the wind rose, which it always has
done, for some days, about noon. Tobermorie is an excellent harbour.
An island lies before it, and it is surrounded by a hilly theatre[836].
The island is too low, otherwise this would be quite a secure port; but,
the island not being a sufficient protection, some storms blow very hard
here. Not long ago, fifteen vessels were blown from their moorings.
There are sometimes sixty or seventy sail here: to-day there were twelve
or fourteen vessels. To see such a fleet was the next thing to seeing a
town. The vessels were from different places; Clyde, Campbelltown,
Newcastle, &c. One was returning to Lancaster from Hamburgh. After
having been shut up so long in Col, the sight of such an assemblage of
moving habitations, containing such a variety of people, engaged in
different pursuits, gave me much gaiety of spirit. When we had landed,
Dr. Johnson said, 'Boswell is now all alive. He is like Antaeus; he gets
new vigour whenever he touches the ground.' I went to the top of a hill
fronting the harbour, from whence I had a good view of it. We had here a
tolerable inn. Dr. Johnson had owned to me this morning, that he was out
of humour. Indeed, he shewed it a good deal in the ship; for when I was
expressing my joy on the prospect of our landing in Mull, he said, he
had no joy, when he recollected that it would be five days before he
should get to the main land. I was afraid he would now take a sudden
resolution to give up seeing Icolmkill. A dish of tea, and some good
bread and butter, did him service, and his bad humour went off. I told
him, that I was diverted to hear all the people whom we had visited in
our tour, say, _'Honest man!_ he's pleased with every thing; he's always
content!'--'Little do they know,' said I. He laughed, and said, 'You
rogue[837]!'
We sent to hire horses to carry us across the island of Mull to the
shore opposite to Inchkenneth, the residence of Sir Allan M'Lean, uncle
to young Col, and Chief of the M'Leans, to whose house we intended to go
the next day. Our friend Col went to visit his aunt, the wife of Dr.
Alexander M'Lean, a physician, who lives about a mile from Tobermorie.
Dr. Johnson and I sat by ourselves at the inn, and talked a good deal. I
told him, that I had found, in Leandro Alberti's Description of Italy,
much of what Addison has given us in his _Remarks_[838]. He said, 'The
collection of passages from the Classicks has been made by another
Italian: it is, however, impossible to detect a man as a plagiary in
such a case, because all who set about making such a collection must
find the same passages; but, if you find the same applications in
another book, then Addison's learning in his _Remarks_ tumbles down. It
is a tedious book; and, if it were not attached to Addison's previous
reputation, one would not think much of it. Had he written nothing else,
his name would not have lived. Addison does not seem to have gone deep
in Italian literature: he shews nothing of it in his subsequent
writings. He shews a great deal of French learning. There is, perhaps,
more knowledge circulated in the French language than in any other[839].
There is more original knowledge in English.' 'But the French (said I)
have the art of accommodating[840] literature.' JOHNSON. 'Yes, Sir: we
have no such book as Moreri's _Dictionary_[841].' BOSWELL. 'Their
_Ana_[842] are good.' JOHNSON. 'A few of them are good; but we have one
book of that kind better than any of them; Selden's _Table-talk_. As to
original literature, the French have a couple of tragick poets who go
round the world, Racine and Corneille, and one comick poet, Moliere.'
BOSWELL. 'They have Fenelon.' JOHNSON. 'Why, Sir, _Telemachus_ is pretty
well.' BOSWELL. 'And Voltaire, Sir.' JOHNSON. 'He has not stood his
trial yet. And what makes Voltaire chiefly circulate is collection; such
as his _Universal History_.' BOSWELL. 'What do you say to the Bishop of
Meaux?' JOHNSON. 'Sir, nobody reads him[843].' He would not allow
Massilon and Bourdaloue to go round the world. In general, however, he
gave the French much praise for their industry.
He asked me whether he had mentioned, in any of the papers of the
_Rambler_, the description in Virgil of the entrance into Hell, with an
application to the press; 'for (said he) I do not much remember them.' I
told him, 'No.' Upon which he repeated it:--
'Vestibulum ante ipsum, primisque in faucibus orci,
Luctus et ultrices posuere cubilia Curae;
Pallentesque habitant Morbi, tristisque Senectus,
Et metus, et malesuada Fames, et turpis Egestas,
Terribiles visu formae; Lethumque, Laborque[844].'
'Now, (said he) almost all these apply exactly to an authour: all these
are the concomitants of a printing-house. I proposed to him to dictate
an essay on it, and offered to write it. He said, he would not do it
then, but perhaps would write one at some future period.
The Sunday evening that we sat by ourselves at Aberdeen, I asked him
several particulars of his life, from his early years, which he readily
told me; and I wrote them down before him. This day I proceeded in my
inquiries, also writing them in his presence. I have them on detached
sheets. I shall collect authentick materials for THE LIFE OF SAMUEL
JOHNSON, LL.D.; and, if I survive him, I shall be one who will most
faithfully do honour to his memory. I have now a vast treasure of his
conversation, at different times, since the year 1762[845], when I first
obtained his acquaintance; and, by assiduous inquiry, I can make up for
not knowing him sooner[846].
A Newcastle ship-master, who happened to be in the house, intruded
himself upon us. He was much in liquor, and talked nonsense about his
being a man for _Wilkes and Liberty_, and against the ministry. Dr.
Johnson was angry, that 'a fellow should come into _our_ company, who
was fit for _no_ company.' He left us soon.
Col returned from his aunt, and told us, she insisted that we should
come to her house that night. He introduced to us Mr. Campbell, the Duke
of Argyle's factor in Tyr-yi. He was a genteel, agreeable man. He was
going to Inverary, and promised to put letters into the post-office for
us[847]. I now found that Dr. Johnson's desire to get on the main land,
arose from his anxiety to have an opportunity of conveying letters to
his friends.
After dinner, we proceeded to Dr. M'Lean's, which was about a mile from
our inn. He was not at home, but we were received by his lady and
daughter, who entertained us so well, that Dr. Johnson seemed quite
happy. When we had supped, he asked me to give him some paper to write
letters. I begged he would write short ones, and not _expatiate_, as we
ought to set off early. He was irritated by this, and said, 'What must
be done; must be done: the thing is past a joke.' 'Nay, Sir, (said I,)
write as much as you please; but do not blame me, if we are kept six
days before we get to the main land. You were very impatient in the
morning: but no sooner do you find yourself in good quarters, than you
forget that you are to move.' I got him paper enough, and we parted in
good humour.
Let me now recollect whatever particulars I have omitted. In the morning
I said to him, before we landed at Tobermorie, 'We shall see Dr. M'Lean,
who has written _The History of the M'Leans'_. JOHNSON. 'I have no great
patience to stay to hear the history of the M'Leans. I would rather hear
the History of the Thrales.' When on Mull, I said, 'Well, Sir, this is
the fourth of the Hebrides that we have been upon.' JOHNSON. 'Nay, we
cannot boast of the number we have seen. We thought we should see many
more. We thought of sailing about easily from island to island; and so
we should, had we come at a better season[848]; but we, being wise men,
thought it would be summer all the year where _we_ were. However, Sir,
we have seen enough to give us a pretty good notion of the system of
insular life.'
Let me not forget, that he sometimes amused himself with very slight
reading; from which, however, his conversation shewed that he contrived
to extract some benefit. At Captain M'Lean's he read a good deal in _The
Charmer_, a collection of songs[849].
We this morning found that we could not proceed, there being a violent
storm of wind and rain, and the rivers being impassable. When I
expressed my discontent at our confinement, Dr. Johnson said, 'Now that
I have had an opportunity of writing to the main land, I am in no such
haste.' I was amused with his being so easily satisfied; for the truth
was, that the gentleman who was to convey our letters, as I was now
informed, was not to set out for Inverary for some time; so that it was
probable we should be there as soon as he: however, I did not undeceive
my friend, but suffered him to enjoy his fancy.
Dr. Johnson asked, in the evening, to see Dr. M'Lean's books. He took
down Willis _de Anima Brutorum_[850], and pored over it a good deal.
Miss M'Lean produced some Erse poems by John M'Lean, who was a famous
bard in Mull, and had died only a few years ago. He could neither read
nor write. She read and translated two of them; one, a kind of elegy on
Sir John M'Lean's being obliged to fly his country in 1715; another, a
dialogue between two Roman Catholick young ladies, sisters, whether it
was better to be a nun or to marry. I could not perceive much poetical
imagery in the translation. Yet all of our company who understood Erse,
seemed charmed with the original. There may, perhaps, be some choice of
expression, and some excellence of arrangement, that cannot be shewn in
translation.
After we had exhausted the Erse poems, of which Dr. Johnson said
nothing, Miss M'Lean gave us several tunes on a spinnet, which, though
made so long ago as in 1667, was still very well toned. She sung along
with it. Dr. Johnson seemed pleased with the musick, though he owns he
neither likes it, nor has hardly any perception of it. At Mr.
M'Pherson's, in Slate, he told us, that 'he knew a drum from a trumpet,
and a bagpipe from a guittar, which was about the extent of his
knowledge of musick.' To-night he said, that, 'if he had learnt musick,
he should have been afraid he would have done nothing else but play. It
was a method of employing the mind without the labour of thinking at
all, and with some applause from a man's self[851].'
We had the musick of the bagpipe every day, at Armidale, Dunvegan, and
Col. Dr. Johnson appeared fond of it, and used often to stand for some
time with his ear close to the great drone.
The penurious gentleman of our acquaintance, formerly alluded to[852],
afforded us a topick of conversation to-night. Dr. Johnson said, I ought
to write down a collection of the instances of his narrowness, as they
almost exceeded belief. Col told us, that O'Kane, the famous Irish
harper, was once at that gentleman's house. He could not find in his
heart to give him any money, but gave him a key for a harp, which was
finely ornamented with gold and silver, and with a precious stone, and
was worth eighty or a hundred guineas. He did not know the value of it;
and when he came to know it, he would fain have had it back; but O'Kane
took care that he should not. JOHNSON. 'They exaggerate the value; every
body is so desirous that he should be fleeced. I am very willing it
should be worth eighty or a hundred guineas; but I do not believe it.'
BOSWELL. 'I do not think O'Kane was obliged to give it back.' JOHNSON.
'No, Sir. If a man with his eyes open, and without any means used to
deceive him, gives me a thing, I am not to let him have it again when he
grows wiser. I like to see how avarice defeats itself: how, when
avoiding to part with money, the miser gives something more valuable.'
Col said, the gentleman's relations were angry at his giving away the
harp-key, for it had been long in the family. JOHNSON. 'Sir, he values a
new guinea more than an old friend.'
Col also told us, that the same person having come up with a serjeant
and twenty men, working on the high road, he entered into discourse with
the serjeant, and then gave him sixpence for the men to drink. The
serjeant asked, 'Who is this fellow?'. Upon being informed, he said, 'If
I had known who he was, I should have thrown it in his face.' JOHNSON.
'There is much want of sense in all this. He had no business to speak
with the serjeant. He might have been in haste, and trotted on. He has
not learnt to be a miser: I believe we must take him apprentice.'
BOSWELL. 'He would grudge giving half a guinea to be taught.' JOHNSON.
'Nay, Sir, you must teach him _gratis_. You must give him an opportunity
to practice your precepts.'
Let me now go back, and glean _Johnsoniana_. The Saturday before we
sailed from Slate, I sat awhile in the afternoon, with Dr. Johnson in
his room, in a quiet serious frame. I observed, that hardly any man was
accurately prepared for dying; but almost every one left something
undone, something in confusion; that my father, indeed, told me he knew
one man, (Carlisle of Limekilns,) after whose death all his papers were
found in exact order; and nothing was omitted in his will. JOHNSON.
'Sir, I had an uncle who died so; but such attention requires great
leisure, and great firmness of mind. If one was to think constantly of
death, the business of life would stand still. I am no friend to making
religion appear too hard. Many good people have done harm by giving
severe notions of it. In the same way, as to learning: I never frighten
young people with difficulties; on the contrary, I tell them that they
may very easily get as much as will do very well. I do not indeed tell
them that they will be _Bentleys_!
The night we rode to Col's house, I said, 'Lord Elibank is probably
wondering what is become of us.' JOHNSON. 'No, no; he is not thinking of
us.' BOSWELL. 'But recollect the warmth with which he wrote[853]. Are we
not to believe a man, when he says he has a great desire to see another?
Don't you believe that I was very impatient for your coming to
Scotland?' JOHNSON. 'Yes, Sir; I believe you were; and I was impatient
to come to you. A young man feels so, but seldom an old man.' I however
convinced him that Lord Elibank, who has much of the spirit of a young
man, might feel so. He asked me if our jaunt had answered expectation. I
said it had much exceeded it. I expected much difficulty with him, and
had not found it. 'And (he added) wherever we have come, we have been
received like princes in their progress.'
He said, he would not wish not to be disgusted in the Highlands; for
that would be to lose the power of distinguishing, and a man might then
lie down in the middle of them. He wished only to conceal his disgust.
At Captain M'Lean's, I mentioned Pope's friend, Spence. JOHNSON. 'He was
a weak conceited man[854].' BOSWELL. 'A good scholar, Sir?' JOHNSON.
'Why, no, Sir.' BOSWELL. 'He was a pretty scholar.' JOHNSON. 'You have
about reached him.'
Last night at the inn, when the factor in Tyr-yi spoke of his having
heard that a roof was put on some part of the buildings at Icolmkill, I
unluckily said, 'It will be fortunate if we find a cathedral with a roof
on it.' I said this from a foolish anxiety to engage Dr. Johnson's
curiosity more. He took me short at once. 'What, Sir? how can you talk
so? If we shall _find_ a cathedral roofed! as if we were going to a
_terra incognita_; when every thing that is at Icolmkill is so well
known. You are like some New-England-men who came to the mouth of the
Thames. "Come, (say they,) let us go up and see what sort of inhabitants
there are here." They talked, Sir, as if they had been to go up the
Susquehannah, or any other American river.'
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 16.
This day there was a new moon, and the weather changed for the better.
Dr. Johnson said of Miss M'Lean, 'She is the most accomplished lady that
I have found in the Highlands. She knows French, musick, and drawing,
sews neatly, makes shellwork, and can milk cows; in short, she can do
every thing. She talks sensibly, and is the first person whom I have
found, that can translate Erse poetry literally[855].' We set out,
mounted on little Mull horses. Mull corresponded exactly with the idea
which I had always had of it; a hilly country, diversified with heath
and grass, and many rivulets. Dr. Johnson was not in very good humour.
He said, it was a dreary country, much worse than Sky. I differed from
him. 'O, Sir, (said he,) a most dolorous country[856]!'
We had a very hard journey to-day. I had no bridle for my sheltie, but
only a halter; and Joseph rode without a saddle. At one place, a loch
having swelled over the road, we were obliged to plunge through pretty
deep water. Dr. Johnson observed, how helpless a man would be, were he
travelling here alone, and should meet with any accident; and said, 'he
longed to get to _a country of saddles and bridles_' He was more out of
humour to-day, than he has been in the course of our Tour, being fretted
to find that his little horse could scarcely support his weight; and
having suffered a loss, which, though small in itself, was of some
consequence to him, while travelling the rugged steeps of Mull, where he
was at times obliged to walk. The loss that I allude to was that of the
large oak-stick, which, as I formerly mentioned, he had brought with him
from London[857]. It was of great use to him in our wild peregrination;
for, ever since his last illness in 1766[858], he has had a weakness in
his knees, and has not been able to walk easily. It had too the
properties of a measure; for one nail was driven into it at the length
of a foot; another at that of a yard. In return for the services it had
done him, he said, this morning he would make a present of it to some
Museum; but he little thought he was so soon to lose it. As he
preferred riding with a switch, it was entrusted to a fellow to be
delivered to our baggage-man, who followed us at some distance; but we
never saw it more. I could not persuade him out of a suspicion that it
had been stolen. 'No, no, my friend, (said he,) it is not to be expected
that any man in Mull, who has got it, will part with it. Consider, Sir,
the value of such a _piece of timber_ here!'
As we travelled this forenoon, we met Dr. McLean, who expressed much
regret at his having been so unfortunate as to be absent while we were
at his house.
We were in hopes to get to Sir Allan Maclean's at Inchkenneth, to-night;
but the eight miles, of which our road was said to consist, were so very
long, that we did not reach the opposite coast of Mull till seven at
night, though we had set out about eleven in the forenoon; and when we
did arrive there, we found the wind strong against us. Col determined
that we should pass the night at M'Quarrie's, in the island of Ulva,
which lies between Mull and Inchkenneth; and a servant was sent forward
to the ferry, to secure the boat for us; but the boat was gone to the
Ulva side, and the wind was so high that the people could not hear him
call; and the night so dark that they could not see a signal. We should
have been in a very bad situation, had there not fortunately been lying
in the little sound of Ulva an Irish vessel, the Bonnetta, of
Londonderry, Captain M'Lure, master. He himself was at M'Quarrie's; but
his men obligingly came with their long-boat, and ferried us over.
M'Quarrie's house was mean; but we were agreeably surprized with the
appearance of the master, whom we found to be intelligent, polite, and
much a man of the world. Though his clan is not numerous, he is a very
ancient Chief, and has a burial place at Icolmkill. He told us, his
family had possessed Ulva for nine hundred years; but I was distressed
to hear that it was soon to be sold for payment of his debts.
Captain M'Lure, whom we found here, was of Scotch extraction, and
properly a McLeod, being descended of some of the M'Leods who went with
Sir Normand of Bernera to the battle of Worcester; and after the defeat
of the royalists, fled to Ireland, and, to conceal themselves, took a
different name. He told me, there was a great number of them about
Londonderry; some of good property. I said, they should now resume
their real name. The Laird of M'Leod should go over, and assemble them,
and make them all drink the large horn full[859], and from that time
they should be M'Leods. The captain informed us, he had named his ship
the Bonnetta, out of gratitude to Providence; for once, when he was
sailing to America with a good number of passengers, the ship in which
he then sailed was becalmed for five weeks, and during all that time,
numbers of the fish Bonnetta swam close to her, and were caught for
food; he resolved therefore, that the ship he should next get, should be
called the Bonnetta.
M'Quarrie told us a strong instance of the second sight. He had gone to
Edinburgh, and taken a man-servant along with him. An old woman, who was
in the house, said one day, 'M'Quarrie will be at home to-morrow, and
will bring two gentlemen with him;' and she said, she saw his servant
return in red and green. He did come home next day. He had two gentlemen
with him; and his servant had a new red and green livery, which
M'Quarrie had bought for him at Edinburgh, upon a sudden thought, not
having the least intention when he left home to put his servant in
livery; so that the old woman could not have heard any previous mention
